Avoid:

• Wearing jewelry where it isn't necessary — while sleeping, working out, or doing housework, for example.
• Wearing any piece while handling heavy objects, abrasive surfaces, or slippery substances.
• Harsh cleaning products — chemicals like chlorine can discolor gold and platinum and slowly erode a gemstone's polish.

Do:

• Store jewelry in a dark, dry place, away from excess moisture, to prevent tarnishing or fading.
• Regularly check that clasps, prongs, and settings are intact and no stones are loose.
• Consider insuring valuable pieces — accidents happen even with careful handling.
• Use gentler materials and less concentrated cleaning agents where possible.
• Remove gold, silver, or platinum pieces before contact with sand or grit, which causes micro-scratches over time.
• Make sure rings and bracelets are correctly fitted — a piece that slips off easily is more likely to be scratched, dented, or lost.

The Mohs scale is a helpful guide to how resistant a gemstone is to scratching — the higher the number, the more durable the stone. A higher number doesn't mean a stone needs less care, though; every antique piece deserves a gentle touch.

• 2.5 — Pearls, one of the softest materials used in antique jewelry
• 2.5–4 — Silver and gold
• 4–4.5 — Platinum
• 5–6.5 — Opal
• 6–6.5 — Turquoise, moonstone, jade, garnet, peridot
• 7–7.5 — Amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, onyx
• 8 — Emerald, topaz
• 9 — Sapphire, ruby
• 10 — Diamond

A professional jeweler's cleaning kit is simple:

• A soft-bristled toothbrush, used with warm water (and sometimes a mild soap) — even soft brushes can damage the softest stones and metals, so use a light hand.
• A gentle cleaning solution
• A soft cloth and a polishing cloth

No harsh chemicals or bleach. Most routine cleaning can be done with a soft-bristled brush, warm, lightly soapy water, and a clean cloth — always the gentlest method first.

Closed-back and foil-backed jewelry, popular in the Georgian era, should never be exposed to water — even in the course of careful wear. Water can become trapped behind the gemstone, and over time this fades the gem's surface or the foil backing itself; the stone can flake and appear dark and dull rather than at its brightest.

To clean foil-back or closed-back pieces, wipe the stone gently with a soft, lint-free, damp cloth only — never submerge it. It also helps to put these pieces on last, after perfume, makeup, or lotion, so they aren't exposed to any of it.

Diamonds are remarkably hard, but not indestructible. They can scratch metals, softer gemstones, and even other diamonds, so store them separately. A hard impact can still chip or fracture a diamond along its cleavage planes, and extreme temperature swings, sunlight, and humidity can affect them over time.

To clean: soak in warm water with mild detergent (skip this step for closed foil-backed pieces), gently scrub with a soft-bristled brush, and dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners like baking soda, toothpaste, or lemon juice, which can scratch or corrode the setting. An occasional professional cleaning helps maintain brilliance.

As corundum gems, rubies and sapphires are highly durable and resistant to scratching from most substances other than diamonds. Store them in separate cloth or silk-lined pouches, and avoid acids, extreme heat, or rapid temperature changes, which can cause cracking.

To clean: soak in warm water with mild detergent, gently scrub with a soft-bristled brush, and pat dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid corrosive or strong cleaning products, and consider occasional professional cleaning or polishing.

Emeralds are softer than diamonds, sapphires, or rubies, and most on the market — up to 90% — have been treated with oil or resin to fill natural inclusions. That makes ultrasonic and steam cleaners risky: the solutions can dissolve the oil or epoxy filling small fractures, vibrations can weaken heavily included stones, and steam's warm vapor can cause oil or resin to sweat out, leaving the stone brittle.

To clean: use a soft-bristled brush dipped in very mild detergent and lukewarm water, brush gently, and dry with a lint-free cloth. Limit cleaning to a few times a year, keep emeralds in a softly lined case away from other stones, and avoid heat and direct sunlight. Older emeralds may benefit from re-oiling after many years of wear — ask a professional.

Amethyst, citrine, and topaz are durable enough for everyday wear but can still be scratched by harder stones, and topaz and treated amethyst or citrine are sensitive to extreme temperature changes — avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners. Store them away from direct sunlight, which can fade their color over time.

To clean: amethyst can be soaked briefly in a gentle solution; for topaz and citrine, avoid excess moisture or salt water, which can lead to cracks. A soft brush isn't appropriate here — use gentle soap and a lint-free cloth instead, then pat dry.

At just 2.5 on the Mohs scale, pearls are among the softest materials in antique jewelry, and scratches on a pearl can't be polished out — handle them with extra care. Store them flat, in a softly lined case, away from other gemstones and metal pieces, and wear them regularly (pearls kept airtight and unworn can lose their luster). Keep them away from perfume, lotion, hairspray, and other acidic substances.

To clean: wipe with a soft cloth dampened with gentle detergent and lukewarm water only — pearls are sensitive to temperature extremes. Dry and buff with a soft cotton or chamois cloth after wearing.

Store each metal separately from the others and from gemstones to prevent scratching. Keep in mind the porosity of any stones set in the piece too — some, as noted above, shouldn't be submerged in water at all.

To clean: gentle soap, lukewarm water, and a lint-free cloth work for gold, silver, and platinum alike — avoid harsh chemicals like vinegar or baking soda, which can scratch antique pieces. Buff with a proper polishing cloth. Silver naturally tarnishes with time; on antique pieces that can be part of the charm, or it can be gently reversed if you'd prefer a brighter finish. For deeper cleaning, polishing, or re-plating, a professional jeweler is always the safer choice.

Antique rings — especially Georgian and Victorian pieces — often carry elaborate designs, multiple stones, and delicate settings, so it's worth studying your piece before cleaning it. Cross-reference its stones and metals against the guidance above.

• Always use the gentlest method: mild soap, lukewarm water, and a soft, lint-free cloth.
• Avoid harsh chemicals like vinegar, baking soda, or other abrasive cleaners.
• Handle delicate settings gently to avoid loosening stones, and store the ring in a softly lined case away from other jewelry.
• For significant tarnishing, intricate designs, or anything you're unsure about, a professional cleaning is the safer choice.

Antique rings were painstakingly crafted, often decades or centuries ago, and repairing them properly takes specialist knowledge — we'd always recommend against at-home fixes, which can make a problem worse. If a setting or stone needs repair, the first step is understanding the extent of the damage and whether it can be repaired or needs replacing.

Every piece we sell has already been professionally cleaned before listing. If you need restoration or repair down the line, please reach out to us by email and we'll help guide you through it.